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Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Skyler Weeks - Zion





Today I had the opportunity to film the current dyno world record holder Skyler Weeks as he put in day #76 on an insane dyno project in Clear Creek Canyon. He felt good today and after about 10 tries he was able to land the difficult left-right double clutch at the lip of the problem. He called it 'Zion'.
Zion is about 8.5 feet from jug to jug, and the footholds are in awkward positions and a bit lower than is ideal for a big dyno.
Skyler has taken dyno climbing somewhere it hasn't been before... to him it's not really a party trick for gym sessions or for laughs. Get this: He trains alongside the Denver Nuggets. His vertical leap is over 30" which is pretty good even by NBA standards... click here if you don't believe me: http://vertcoach.com/highest-vertical-leap.html
As far as a grade for the problem... obviously it's difficult to slap a grade on something that is as body-specific as a pure jug-to-jug dyno. If we assume White Men Cant Jump (at Morrison) is a consensus V10, then I think proposing V13 for Zion is not out of the question. "But he's like six feet tall" some will say. Well I might say this: It's possible that other high-end climbers also have certain genetic advantages that give them physical attributes better suited to high-grade climbing as well. Tendons that dont break, sweat glands that are less active, fast-twitch muscles, even the shape of joints and the natural variations in where muscles contact bone can vary from individual to individual, and these physical attributes may also allow people to climb high-difficulty problems.
Anyways, Skyler's technique is really fun to watch... he builds up momentum and then explodes upwards. It's very athletic, very cool to watch a climber cover so much ground so quickly.

3 comments:

Dispatcher said...

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/dynorecord/

Movecrafter said...

As it turns out, the climber in the article related to the link above used a technique considered to be illegal by the official guinness standards, so the jump was invalid and the record went back to Skyler. He defended the record earlier this year at the official competition in the UK.

Rulle said...

Since when did we need Guinness to sanction our sport???

; #