Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Last weekend, Wine for Water held its first major event in Paso Robles, CA. The event featured the short film I made about clean water in Ethiopia, and I just heard that over $23,000 was raised. I'm psyched to be a part of this organization and I hope to do more in the future to support it. Donating clean water is a form of aid that helps get people off aid. Clean water gives people the energy and extra time to better help themselves. Consider a donation to this effort today.
Wine For Water
Monday, August 24, 2009
I did a lot of mileage on some great moderates, and finished the day with a quick send of Sunspot, a classic V11 just off the trail. It was the end of the day and I had just failed near the top and was ready to go home, but everyone was like 'just rest and give it one more try'... this was already about 10 hours since we left the car... but I rested for about ten minutes and sent next try.
Lesson: when your tired friends say to give it one more try, cause it looks like you're close... LISTEN TO THEM! THANKS THOMAS AND RICH!!
I dont have a picture of sunspot, but I googled it and found one:
In the below post I mentioned the fantastic Air Star project at Roadside in Rocklands. As it turns out, Austria's world-cup crushing super-hero Kilian Fischhuber has managed to send the line on one of the last days of his trip. This season, I proposed that this line was climbable and was in fact the last great prize at Roadside. As far as I know, this line has been tried (or at least seen) by every single climber who has visited Rocklands. Congratulations to Kilian for having the power to send, and the guts to latch the crux hold and hang on for the ride. I cant wait to try this line in the future. The photo at left is from one of Kevin's attempts during his visit.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
So much searching, in fact, that my legs are still sore after a week of rest. This season I was excited to search out and discover something new and cool. I wanted to find and complete a boulder problem that was not only at my limit, but had some thing about it that I had never experienced before. Whether a crazy new move or a type of feature I had never climbed... I wanted to just keep searching until I found what I was looking for.
I was able to complete several new problems this season, including the first ascent of an absolute classic I named Spudd Webb in honor of the height-challenged NBA player who could still slam dunk. Despite the fact that it was an amazing, near perfect boulder problem, it was not at the limit of my ability. The 'slam dunk' move is one of the coolest moves I've ever done, but this didn't feel like the climax of my trip.
One day, myself, Nalle, Kevin, Sarah and I went out to explore a new zone called The Base Camp. These boulders looked great and there was one line that stood out among all the others. A group of motivated Germans were there, including Flo and Axel, who spent the whole season in Rocklands. As it happens, they had seen the same line as I did and were planning to try to climb it. They had already spent some time making the landing safe so I stood back and allowed them to work on the moves and try to send the problem first. After about an hour I checked back and none of them had topped it out, so I put on my shoes and helped them find the beta for the top of the climb, a difficult though very small move from a micro-crimp to the top of the boulder. A fall from this move could be dangerous so it was important to have all the pads and all the spotters ready in case you miss this powerful and balancy move.
Another meaningful event during the season was our visit to the Elizabethfontaine Primary School, which is located right in the middle of Rocklands. This Spring we put on movie screenings of my last film, Pure, and we also did an event where Kevin Jorgeson gave an excellent slideshow. Kevin got to see the school for the first time on the trip and he was psyched to have participated in the fundraising. In addition to donating money to the school, we also had a couple hundred toothbrushes and some warm winter hats from Cloudveil that we gave to the teachers in order to distribute to the kids.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
The Enercon e-126 wind turbine.
I just read that the worlds largest wind turbine has been installed in Germany, and the estimated production of the generator is over 7000 Kwh. How much is that? I asked Sarah how many Kilowatt Hours the new climbing gym in Boulder uses, and she said it was designed to use about 14 Kwh.
This means that the Enercon turbine could, by itself, power 500 large commercial buildings... especially those that are designed to be effecient.
The turbine also has adjustable blades that better cope with varrying wind speeds, allowing it to operate efficiently in a variety of conditions. It was also designed to cause minimum harm to bird life, a over-hyped 'downside' of wind generation. Last time I checked, the Exxon Valdez caused a bit of harm to wildlife too.
The interior of Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder, CO - A city where I do not live.
I'm finally beginning to feel human again after a long season in Rocklands. I'll have some other posts from the bouldering mecca of the southern hemisphere in the coming days, including an update from the Elizabethfontaine Primary School, where we were able to make another donation this season.
Yesterday was my birthday and today I'm going to Red Rocks to watch Top Gun. Will I dress up like Maverick? AFFIRMATIVE.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Livin Large is the single most daunting boulder problem I've ever seen in my entire life.
Spirits were low for a little while as we spent day after day gathering the needed pads and spotters and doing the hour-long hike to give the project a handfull of burns at dusk, right when conditions were perfect. Walking home every night empty handed was starting get pretty old, and our political capital was beginning to run pretty thin with everyone we were borrowing pads from. Thanks go out to everyone who contributed by carrying a pad, a tripod, or just their carcass to spot all the way up to the area. Special thanks to Team Norway who let us borrow all their pads on multiple days while Nalle was taking attempts.
Livin Large takes the prominent right arete.
Yesterday the conditions were perfect and after a few tries he managed to get through the powerful moves at the bottom of the problem and hang on all the way through the pumpy finish to complete the problem.
Nalle on Project Real Big during an unsuccessful attempt.
Unsuccess on Project Real Big.
I filmed the entire process of working the problem and the final send with the Red One and the footage is amazing. Nalle picked the best lighting possible for the send - the mark of a true professional. My next video is picking up momentum and I should be able to have a release together for next Spring. Nalle and I are now finishing up our development of the sector, dubbed the Champagne Sector. Today we added a couple new problems and maybe tomorrow some more will go in. The area is looking like it will be a good addition to rocklands and I'm psyched to make my contribution to the area by opening yet another great new sector.
Nalle starts the celebration after the big send. Livin Large!
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