Kevin Jorgeson knows how to rock climb. I'm in California now, staying with the man himself and shooting footage for my upcoming DVD, Pure. Kevin has been doing ropeless ascents of some of the old toprope lines in the area, and they are first-rate in terms of quality and aesthetic appeal. It's too bad there aren't hundreds of these lines all over the coast, but the singularity of the lines he's climbed make them even more special.
When you're climbing near the ocean there are a whole set of variables you need to consider that you might not normally think about. In addition to the regular bouldering stuff like temperature, humidity, time of day, etc... you have to take into account the high and low tides, the size of the swells, and the direction of the spray from the breakers. We got really lucky yesterday, Kevin decided to go for the send on a very cool problem on the coast, and we had a total of about 5 minutes of light to work with. I managed to get two angles on the climb and Kevin sent the route without falling. It's a good thing, too... the problem was not small.
Today we filmed an amazing dyno that had Kevin hucking full-power at a sloping shelf at about 16-feet. After a few tries he stuck it. I was psyched cause I did my job and stuck the footage. Aw yeah. We're back at Kevin's house now watching the TV show 'house', which is about a straight-talking doctor who says what he means and means what he says.
Have a great day.