A new addition to the Milennium Boulder?

Photos from Kristen


This weekend was blessed with cool temps and good climbing conditions. Saturday I tried a variation on Fleshfest at the Satellite Boulders which diverts left and adds a hard upper crux. After falling from the upper move twice I realized I had sprained my ankle and so I called it a day.

Sunday I went out to the Milennium Boulder and was able to add a new line that goes between Ghost Dance and Moon Child. I had to break a few twigs off a bush in order to climb it, but I think the bush will be okay. Be careful if you go there to not break too many more branches. The line is almost completely independent... the only overlap is a single foothold which some people use as an intermediate handhold on Ghost Dance, but otherwise its a 100% stand-alone problem on great rock with a committing dyno at the top. Hard to think of anything that detracts from this problem... 5-stars? Okay, maybe 4. Real good though.

Unless it's been done before I would suggest the name 'Friend to Fanboy'.

I believe there is only one more undone line on this boulder, the arete left of Ghost Dance. Climbing the arete by itself without diverting into Ghost Dance may make this problem more of a contrivance than a line, but time will tell.

In related news, Stephanie Marvez finally put Captain Hook to rest on Saturday. A great effort there and worthy of the nine points she took for the send. Kristen did Nadeer on Sunday, getting six points in the bag. Productivity was high this weekend and I think the guys in corporate are going to be excited with the output of the team.

I'm leaving for Austria on Wednesday to reconnect with Cody, Nalle, and the Austrian crew to do a bunch of screenings of my film Pure. I cant wait to get the film in front of some more audiences. The film has been shown about a dozen times now and the response is great. Thanks to everyone who has attended a show!